Cross-country skiing, also known as Nordic skiing, means moving across the snow under your own power, using your legs and arms, on flat ground and gentle climbs and descents, without chairlifts. It's one of the most complete endurance sports there is and, at the same time, one of the easiest to get started in: within a couple of hours you're already making your way around a trail. In this guide we explain what it is, how the classic and skating styles differ, what equipment you need, how to dress, how to approach your first day and where to go cross-country skiing in Spain and Andorra.
What Is Cross-Country Skiing?
It's the form of skiing in which you propel yourself along trails prepared in the snow, usually by grooming machines that cut two parallel tracks for the classic style and leave a wide, smooth lane alongside for skating. The boot is attached to the binding only at the toe and the heel stays free, which lets you stride and push off as if walking or skating.
It began as a way of getting around in winter in the Nordic countries, hence its other name. Today it's practised as a leisure sport, as endurance training and as a competitive discipline: it has been part of the Winter Olympics since the very first edition, in Chamonix in 1924. In Spanish it's called esquí de fondo, and in English you'll also see the term Nordic skiing, which in the broad sense also includes ski jumping and Nordic combined.
Classic and Skating: the Two Cross-Country Skiing Techniques
Classic Style
This is the traditional style and the one we recommend for beginners. The skis stay parallel inside the grooved tracks and the movement resembles walking or running: the diagonal stride combines the push of one leg with the opposite pole. On fast flats or gentle descents you use double poling, pushing with both poles at once. To climb, the ski needs grip underfoot, which comes from fishscales, skins or grip wax (we cover this in the equipment section).
Skating Style
It became popular in the 1980s and now has its own competitions. The skis open in a V and you push outwards on the edge, like an ice skater, helped by the poles. It's faster and demands more technique, balance and fitness, so almost everyone learns classic first and moves on to skating later.
| Classic | Skating | |
|---|---|---|
| Movement | Diagonal stride inside the tracks | Sideways push in a V, like skating |
| Trail | Two parallel grooved tracks | Wide, smooth, well-groomed lane |
| Skis | Longer, with a grip zone underfoot | Shorter and stiffer, with no grip zone |
| Boots | Flexible, comfortable for striding | Higher, with more ankle support |
| Poles | Shorter | Longer |
| Who it's for | Beginners and leisurely touring | Skiers who already have good balance and want intensity |
Cross-Country vs Alpine Skiing: the Differences
Many people come to cross-country from alpine skiing, and it's worth knowing that they're very different sports even though they share the snow:
- Free or fixed heel: in alpine skiing the boot is locked into the binding at the front and back; in cross-country only at the toe.
- Lifts: in alpine skiing you ride up on a chairlift and ski down; cross-country covers trails with flats, climbs and descents and doesn't use lifts.
- Equipment: cross-country skis are much narrower and lighter, the boots are more like a trainer and the poles come up higher.
- Effort: alpine skiing is intense in bursts, with rests on the lift; cross-country is aerobic and continuous, and works your legs, arms, back and core at the same time.
- Risk and cost: speeds are lower and trail access is usually cheaper than an alpine lift pass.
Nor should it be confused with ski touring or ski mountaineering, which also frees the heel for climbing but uses alpine skis and boots to ski down off-piste.
Cross-Country Skiing Equipment
Skis
Cross-country skis are chosen mainly by the skier's weight, not just height, because their arch (the camber) has to flatten just the right amount when you put your weight on it. For the classic style there are three grip options:
- Fishscales: a pattern cut into the base underfoot that grips when climbing and glides when moving forward. It doesn't need grip wax and is the easiest option for beginners and for rental.
- Skins: a strip of synthetic or mohair skin built into the grip zone. It glides better than fishscales and works in almost all snow conditions with little maintenance.
- Grip wax: the traditional option and the one used in racing. You apply a wax or klister depending on the temperature and type of snow; it gives the best performance, but you need to know how to wax.
Skating skis have no grip zone: they only have glide wax along the whole base. There are also combi skis for anyone who wants to try both styles, although they don't do either as well as dedicated skis.
Among the brands, Fischer is one of the strongest in cross-country, alongside other Nordic specialists, with a full range of skis, boots and bindings for both styles. If you're interested in the brand, you'll find its alpine models in Fischer skis.
Bindings
Modern cross-country bindings hold the boot by a metal bar at the toe. The most common systems are NNN, Prolink and Turnamic, and boots designed for any of them are compatible with each other, because they share the same bar. The old two-bar SNS system isn't compatible with them. Before buying or renting, check that your boots and bindings use the same system.
Boots
They're light, flexible around the toes and much more comfortable than an alpine boot. Classic boots flex easily for striding; skating boots have a higher, stiffer cuff to support the ankle during the sideways push. Try them on with the technical socks you'll be wearing: if they press on your instep, they'll bother you when you're skiing.
Poles
They're longer than alpine poles and have a strap that wraps around your hand so you can push without gripping. As a guide, classic poles usually reach shoulder height and skating poles a little higher, close to your chin or mouth. In the shop they'll adjust them to your height.
Cross-Country Skiing Clothing: Thin, Breathable Layers
The most common mistake is dressing as you would for alpine skiing. In cross-country you sweat, so thick clothing is unnecessary and what works is thin layers you can take off and put on:
- Base layer: thermal top and leggings in synthetic fabric or merino wool that wick away sweat. No cotton.
- Mid layer: a thin fleece or a light jacket, depending on the cold.
- Outer layer: a breathable windproof jacket and stretchy cross-country or hiking trousers. A ski jacket or alpine ski trousers are too warm.
- Accessories: a thin hat or headband, thin gloves (and a thicker pair in your backpack for stops), sunglasses and sunscreen.
- To carry: a warm layer for when you stop, water and something to eat; continuous effort burns a lot of energy.
Your First Day of Cross-Country Skiing
- Choose a Nordic centre with groomed trails. You'll have grooved tracks, trails signposted by difficulty, rental and, at many of them, a ski school.
- Start with classic on fishscale skis. It's the easiest option and you don't have to think about wax.
- Take a one- or two-hour lesson. In a short time you'll learn what would otherwise take days: the diagonal stride, double poling, how to turn and how to get up.
- Learn to brake and to climb. On descents you brake with a snowplough, stepping out of the track; on steep climbs you herringbone up, with your ski tips apart.
- Start with the easiest, shortest trail. Better to be left wanting more than to end up exhausted far from the start.
- Follow the trail rules. Keep to the right, leave the track clear when you stop and don't walk on the grooved tracks.
Where to Go Cross-Country Skiing in Spain
Cross-country skiing in Spain is concentrated in the Pyrenees, with Nordic centres that have groomed trails, rental and, in many cases, a ski school. They all depend on each winter's snow, so check whether they're open before you go.
Aragonese Pyrenees
- Llanos del Hospital (Benasque): one of Aragon's leading Nordic centres, at the head of the Benasque valley, with trails through forest and mountains.
- Candanchú: the alpine resort also has cross-country skiing trails, near the Somport pass.
- Somport: on the other side of the pass, on the French side, there's a Nordic area that many Spanish skiers make use of from the Jacetania.
- Linza (Ansó valley): a Nordic area at the head of the Ansó valley, in the heart of the western Pyrenees.
Navarre
- Belagua (Roncal valley): Navarre's Nordic centre, in the Larra-Belagua area, above Isaba. It's the go-to option for skiers coming from the Basque Country and Navarre.
Catalan Pyrenees
- Beret (Baqueira Beret): the Pla de Beret, in the Val d'Aran, has flat cross-country trails next to the alpine resort.
- Lles de Cerdanya and Aransa: two Nordic centres in the Cerdanya, very close to each other.
- Guils-Fontanera: also in the Cerdanya, a few kilometres from Puigcerdà.
- Tuixent-La Vansa: in the Alt Urgell, at the foot of the Cadí range.
- Sant Joan de l'Erm: in the Alt Urgell, inside the Alt Pirineu Natural Park, with trails through the forests.
Andorra
- Naturland (La Rabassa): in Sant Julià de Lòria, Andorra's Nordic and snow activities area.
If you ski in the southern hemisphere, in Argentina the valleys near Ushuaia, such as Tierra Mayor, have cross-country skiing centres.
Competition: World Cup and Olympic Games
The FIS Cross-Country World Cup is held every winter with distance races, sprints and relays, alternating between classic and freestyle (in practice, skating). A highlight of the calendar is the Tour de Ski, a stage race held around New Year. Norway, Sweden and Finland have historically dominated the discipline. At the Winter Olympics it's one of the sports with the most events on the programme, and it's also part of biathlon (cross-country and shooting) and Nordic combined (cross-country and ski jumping).
Equipment Rental at Caranva
We don't yet have dedicated cross-country skiing kits at Caranva: Nordic equipment is rented by the Nordic centres themselves at the trail entrance. What you can book before you arrive is alpine equipment at resorts that also have cross-country trails, in case you combine both on the same trip:
- Rental in Baqueira Beret, with the Beret trails right next door.
- Rental in Candanchú, next to the Somport.
- Rental in Cerler, in the same valley as Llanos del Hospital.
If you're thinking of buying your own skis, our complete guide to skis explains the types, sizes and how to choose.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is cross-country skiing?
It's the form of skiing in which you move under your own power along snow trails, on the flat and with gentle climbs and descents, without lifts. The boot is attached only at the toe and the heel stays free. It's done in two styles, classic and skating, and has been an Olympic sport since 1924.
What is cross-country skiing called in Spanish?
Esquí de fondo. The term Nordic skiing is also used in English, although in the broad sense it includes ski jumping and Nordic combined.
What equipment do I need to get started?
Cross-country skis (for beginners, classic skis with fishscales), boots and bindings of the same system (NNN, Prolink or Turnamic), cross-country poles and clothing in thin, breathable layers. Everything can be rented at the Nordic centres.
Is cross-country skiing difficult?
The classic style is one of the easiest snow sports to start: after one lesson you're already making your way around an easy trail. The demanding part is the physical side, because the effort is continuous. Skating requires more technique and balance.
Can I use alpine boots or skis for cross-country?
No. Alpine equipment locks the heel and is too heavy for moving on the flat. Cross-country skiing needs narrow skis, flexible boots and toe bindings.
Where can you go cross-country skiing in Spain?
Mainly in the Pyrenees: Llanos del Hospital (Benasque), Candanchú, Linza, Belagua in Navarre, Beret in the Val d'Aran, and Lles de Cerdanya, Aransa, Guils-Fontanera, Tuixent-La Vansa and Sant Joan de l'Erm in Catalonia. In Andorra, Naturland.
